There was a time when runways were dominated by clear skin and sleek, subtle hairdos. However, while this is still popular across the globe, bold and dramatic looks continue to trend, too. From illusion makeup at Atsushi Nakashima’s show and Fendi’s glitter lips in the 2017 Women’s Spring/Summer collections at Milan Fashion Week to a ‘caged’ look at Bloni and Anaam’s show and face art at Urvashi Kaur’s showcase at the recently concluded Lakmé Fashion Week, the looks have been highly innovative. However, the question is, why all the drama, anyway?
Designers say the drama is important to put their idea and theme across to the viewers. “The makeup was linked to the collection. The face art on the right side of the female models and left side of the male models projected that everyone has a feminine and a masculine side. My collection is all about gender neutrality, and to complete the presentation, I needed the makeup to reflect that,” says designer Urvashi Kaur.
Agreeing with the need for drama, designer Akshat Bansal of Bloni shares, “My collection showcased marine life and how choked they feel. Hence, the pale look. White lips depicted dehydration and the fishnet kind of hair on the face showed how they are caged and suffering.” Wouldn’t the drama take the focus away from the garments though? “The clothes are strong enough to compliment the makeup, so it never takes away,” says Bansal.
Not everyone agrees, though. Some experts believe that it is vital to strike a balance. “Every model looks different and the attention goes to the makeup rather than the clothes. However, at shows with a longer runway, the audience would get more time to appreciate both the makeup and the garment,” says beauty expert Ambika Pillai. Hairstylist Rod Anker agrees and adds, “A balance has to be created so that the hair and makeup are not distracting. One can add drama keeping in mind the aesthetic sense of the garment and the show.”