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Ultra-light tailoring rules the ramp | Latest News & Updates at Daily News & Analysis

At the recently-concluded Paris Fashion Week, Designer Kris Van Assche at Dior Homme shook menswear’s jaded aesthetic sphere out of its reverie by sending out an avalanche of 10-button double-breasted suits with geometric lapels. Adding a sliver of insouciance to these looks were models sporting shoes with unfastened laces. At Lanvin, creative director Lucas Ossendrijver emphasised on re-embracing the suit. His suits were cut close to the body and they were worn with spongy sneakers and backpacks. Brioni saw light embroidered vintage silk suits and there was a flurry of light as feather wool suits at Paul Smith and bias-cut numbers at Maison Margiela and an array of boot-cut styles in pastels at Dunhill. In India, labels like Falguni and Shane Peacock Men and SS Homme have fuelled the course of tailoring in that direction. “Tailoring presented with a sportified finish seems to be the way ahead,” says designer Troy Costa.

Brands across the board are toying with silhouettes that are youthful, not so tailored or fitted, and something which you can combine with a pair of knit pants or a jumper. When a suit is unlined, it can’t be so fitted. The overall emphasis has been on being leaner since fitness has become the new mantra. No wonder that the double-breasted suit has become the mainstay and it’s going to be very prominent from the retail point of view. “Now athleisure is being combined with tailoring — for instance, the unfastened shoelaces at Dior Homme or Balenciaga’s ugly sneakers — it creates a shock value,” adds Troy.   

Stylist Isha Bhansali recently dressed Ayushmann Khurrana in a Canali suit, which was light weight and had no lining except on the shoulder padding.

“It was sharply cut and fitted and the fabric was amazing which required no lining. Suiting is not uptight anymore,” says Isha.

EVOLUTION OF MATERIAL AND DESIGN

Gone are the days of classic suits, now is the time to redesign it and get rid of the unnecessary bulk. Sandeep Gonsalves, co-founder, SS HOMME sees the quintessential suit evolving in terms of materials and design. “Its relevance keeps changing with the times due to the variety of styles and silhouettes available. Modern tailoring is a technique which is used by suit-makers to add structure to the garment, and at the same time keep it lightweight. Close to nothing shoulder pads, light weight canvasses and breathable fabrics are heavily on trend,” says Sandeep.

Contrary to the usual perception of double-breasted tailoring that it’s not viable commercially, Sandeep insists that the double-breasted suit and its variations have become hugely popular. “At SS HOMME, we try to style it well by maintaining a balanced fit. In order to keep it modern, we try to incorporate the master techniques of suit making and that’s what we have tried to create through our recent collections,” adds Sandeep.



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