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10 months ago
Personality over popularity: Brocade weave to luscious silks, the contemporary bride...

Sustainability, ethical sourcing, curbing wastage — every year, the global fashion industry aims to create smarter and more aware buyers. And, since the consumer is king, the biggest responsibility resides with those who make the choice of picking a particular outfit. When it comes to the big fat Indian shaadi, this choice becomes all the more important.

Clothes take on myriad roles when it comes to good ol’ weddings. And, like the changing face of fashion, the bridal mind has also evolved. While traditional, layers of embroideries and detailing on kilos-heavy lehengas at North indian weddings will never go out of fashion, shaadiwear is taking a fresh turn with traditional weaves and a focus on textile. Take for example, product and interior designer Ananya Berry and her engagement outfit that incorporated Benarasi weave, giving wedding couture a handloom touch . “Using Indian traditional craft is unique and truly beautiful because it’s like wearing a piece of art crafted by an artisans’ hand, especially for me.The designer is a textile revivalist Neena Berry, she made the pattern and got the fabric woven by Banarasi weavers.” The brocade and woven silk lehenga — lightweight, and cutting across seasons — has become a popular choice among brides and even her entourage.

Product and interior designer Ananya Berry at her engagement party in Delhi. (Nitesh Square)

Designer Amit Aggarwal, who is known for championing upcycling, says: “I think what a bride wears on her big day is not driven by practicality but by her own personality. It is her tradition and her modern thinking that are coming together, which are making brides choose unique options for their big day. Textile has always been our country’s shining glory. Benarasi and brocade lehengas are light and easy-to-wear, making for a great choice. We also restore old Benarasi textiles and give it a new life with metallic detailing,” he says.

Bride Rasagya Kabra on her wedding day. (Sana Chowhary Photography)

“A lot of women don’t want to spend all their money on clothes. Something need not be ostentatiously priced to be comfortable, luxurious, dramatic,” says designer Payal Khandwala. The repeat value is vital. “You can wear such an outfit again to your friend’s wedding or other occasions— making it a sustainable choice. Brides want to infuse personality in what they wear rather than looking like a commercial for a brand,” she adds. Khandwala explains that a simple silk lehenga skirt has the ability to work across temperatures, diminishes need for a can-can (underskirt) and can be worn later as a separate. While the bride is making newer choices, for designer Shyamal Shodhan of Shyamal & Bhumika, it is more about uniqueness. “While some want to be practical, others might be more sentimental. There is the traditionalist bride, and then there is the practical bride, who wants re-wearability in her outfit. There are different personalities that we come across and they are definitely evolving. But in most cases, brides go for uniqueness and identity over practicality.”

#twinning???????? #miruandmama #squadgoals #weddingseason #madeinindia

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@manishmalhotra05 got me like ????????✨❤️

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The bride might take centrestage, but her entourage needs to have its style on point, too. Take for example. designer Manish Malhotra, who also works with traditional weaves and textile, and this brocade lehenga, designer by him, and worn by actor Kiara Advani to a wedding. Or, Aditi Rao Hydari’s version, also by Malhotra, worn to the Virat-Anushka wedding reception in Mumbai last month.

And, here’s some more celebrity inspiration, if you too choose to play it different:

???? some like it hot.. in my fav @ranianofficial

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Q. If you had to style a bride for her D-Day with Benarasi textile, what colours/style would you choose for the current wedding season?

Amit Aggarwal: It really depends from bride to bride but if I would style her, it will be a deep red with rose gold weaved Benarasi textile made in our brand aesthetic.

Shyamal Shodhan:My personal taste is a little more inclined towards bright and festive Indian hues. Shades like hot pink, mustard, purple, new shades of red, parrot green are the choice. The current trends are inclined a lot towards pastel hues. A palette of pastels looks absolutely stunning depending on the function and of course the bride.

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