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Marc Jacobs closes NY Fashion Week with a dramatic finale

Marc Jacobs, the darling of US high-fashion, brought New York Fashion Week to a dramatic finale with show-stopping sharp hats, huge flourishes and extravagant scarves redrawing the silhouette of his woman for fall 2018.

If New York Fashion Week has been plagued by an identity crisis with a thinning schedule and glut between the passing of one generation and the search for another, then Jacobs’s answer, with his own label suffering from falling revenue, was fantastical romance.

Animal right activists protest outside Marc Jacobs fashion show during Fashion Week in New York. (AP)

He returned to the Park Avenue Armory and a bare set — just naked wooden floor boards and rows of utilitarian chairs with rapper Cardi B, singer Debbie Harry and fellow designer Raf Simons — whose tenure at Calvin Klein has given Jacobs a run for his money — sitting front row. Outside, a small but vocal group of animal rights activists denounced the 54-year-old designer’s use of fur. “Animals are not ours to wear,” they yelled. “Marc Jacobs kills because you buy,” read the placards.

Models wore wide-brimmed black hats, necks were wrapped in scarfs and the upper body cloaked in flourishes that emphasised the beauty of the luxurious fabrics and re-drew the contours of the body. Those without hats sported sharp geometric haircuts, their tresses dyed to match the hue of their attire, from blue to green and purple.

His flamboyant shoes — like something out of a children’s fairy book — with huge buckles and pink silk may have seen several of the models stumble slightly in their footing, but they were works of art. “Huge flourishes, gestures, broad strokes and silhouettes expressed in rich and gorgeous fabrics,” Jacobs wrote in the notes.

Masses of material were bunched up into rosettes, ruffles and flounces at the neck, waist and hip. Waists were cinched, pants cropped. There were lashings of suiting with a boxy cut and broad shoulders, a nod to the power dressing of the 1980s, and his taffeta and velvet flounces and harlequin dresses to the extravagance of those years.

Jacobs came out for the briefest of waves at the end, and then began the stampede to the exit, and the race to the airport to catch the first flight to London, where the fall/winter 2018 fashion week season continues on Thursday, followed by shows in Milan and Paris.

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